Build guide
This guide covers building a Svalboard from a self-print kit. It also helps with repairs and part swaps on a finished board.
Help us improve it: send comments on the Svalboard Discord.
- Before you print, pick your key size. See Sizing before you build.
- To configure your Svalboard after the build, use Keybard in Chrome or Edge: https://keybard.svalboard.com
Video build guide
Section titled “Video build guide”@beepbuildsathing made a video build guide to go with this one: watch it on YouTube.
Some of the video is out of date, and it doesn’t cover steps added since it was made. Where the video and this guide differ, follow this guide.
What’s in the kit
Section titled “What’s in the kit”This is the standard packing list for Lightly FDM V2.0. It can vary a little between kit versions. We pack by weight and include a spare or two of most hardware. You can buy more of the small hardware on Amazon or AliExpress.
| Part | Minimum count |
|---|---|
| N35 magnets | about 200 (100, plus 100 spare) |
| M3x4 heat set inserts | 14 (12, plus 2 spare) |
| M5x5.7 heat set inserts | 4 |
| 1/4-20 heat set inserts | 2 |
| Cluster PCBAs | 10 (2 spare) |
| Thumb PCBAs | 2 |
| Main PCBAs (MCUs) | 2 |
| 150 mm FFCs (flat flexible cables) | 12 (10, plus 2 spare) |
| M2 thread-cutting screws, for PCBAs and palm rest set screws | 46 (44, plus 2 spare) |
| M3 6 mm screws, for cases and clusters | 40 (32, plus 8 spare) |
| M3 square nuts | 32 (24, plus 8 spare) |
| M3 6 mm thread-cutting screws, for the main PCB | 9 (8, plus 1 spare) |
| Stainless steel towers for clusters | set of 10 |
| Rubber feet (FC-036-DCW-PT) | 9 (4 per side) |
| T10 Torx driver | 1 |
| T6 Torx bit | 1 |
| USB-C to USB-C cables | 2 |
| TrackPoint PCBA | optional |
| Trackball PCBA | optional |
The kit has twice the magnets you need, so you can build simple magnet fixtures. They make assembly much more reliable and tidy (Step 2).
Trackballs and static bearings
Section titled “Trackballs and static bearings”Kits don’t include a trackball or the static bearing balls. Buy them separately.
- Static bearings: 3.175 mm ceramic (ZrO2) balls. We recommend G5 grade on Amazon. Some older holder designs use 3 mm balls (G5 on Amazon).
- Trackballs:
- Svalboard Bright Silver, 44 mm: in the Trackball Upgrade Kit, option “Complete with Bright Silver ball - 44mm”.
- SANWA 44 mm red trackball
Trackball size: 44 mm is the default and suits any user. Larger balls need big hands: at least 190 mm, and more likely 200 mm, from wrist to the tip of the middle finger, with a fairly arched fit. A bigger ball affects fit, so start from 44 mm. An average man can probably use a 50 mm ball. Example of a larger ball: SANWA 55 mm.
Handle the PCBAs safely
Section titled “Handle the PCBAs safely”Static can damage the PCBAs.
- Every PCBA is tested and packed in static-dissipative bags or wrap. The exception is the finger cluster PCBAs. They aren’t fully tested, so the kit includes two spares. Test them before final assembly (Step 7).
- About 97.5% of finger cluster PCBAs work. The odds of three bad ones are about 1 in 1,000. If that happens, contact support@svalboard.com for a replacement.
- Use ESD-safe handling: a properly grounded ESD mat and a wrist strap. We can’t take responsibility for PCBAs damaged during assembly.
- Take extra care in dry climates or on carpet.
Tools you need
Section titled “Tools you need”Required:
- A Prusa MK3S or better 3D printer with a 0.4 mm nozzle, or access to one (for example, at a library or makerspace).
- At least one full spool of filament. Black PLA is the basic choice. Any filament that isn’t opaque to infrared light at 940 nm needs silver Sharpie on the key flags (Step 5). Only Sharpie-brand silver works reliably. Sharpie gold, bronze and copper are less reliable.
- Medium CA glue, with fine applicator tips.
- Adjustable parallel pliers. We recommend the Knipex Pliers Wrench, 180 mm.
- A small flat-blade screwdriver, about 4 mm wide and 1 mm thick.
- A heat set insert kit or a soldering iron, for example this one.
- 3D printing experience. This is an advanced build. Depending on your filament and your printer, you may need to tune your slicer settings to get working parts.
Recommended:
- Diamond files for cleanup (200 and 400 grit).
- A #2 X-Acto knife.
The steps
Section titled “The steps”- Print all parts and clean them up
- Organize magnets for assembly
- Install magnets in keys and clusters
- Insert keys into clusters
- Apply paint or ink to key flags as needed
- Attach FFCs to PCBAs
- Install PCBAs in clusters, then test them (recommended)
- Install heat set inserts in base and cover
- Attach towers to clusters
- Install towers on baseplates and clusters on towers, then the pointing devices: 10a TrackPoint, 10b trackball, 10c touchpad
- Route cables through baseplates
- Install MCUs on baseplates and connect cables
- Attach palm rest carriers to baseplates
- Attach palm rests to sleds
- Flash firmware and connect the cables
- Test all keys in Keybard
- Install back cover and rubber feet
- Adjust fit for both hands
- Enjoy!